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Another Do-It-Yourself Animation Desk project

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For those of you with the right tools and the do-it-yourself motivation here is another project to inspire you to build your own animation desk . Click on this link to see details: 

How We Built My Animation Desk


This one starts with a base adapted from an old computer desk :



The rest of the desk is built on top of the computer desk with the typical wood railing system which raises and lowers the angle of the desk top as desired. (or you could also use the ratcheted lid stay hardware shown in one of the posts above in place of the wood railing to raise and lower the table top.)



And here are a couple of photos of the finished product . 
Pretty nice ! 




This desk has a useful feature that many desks lack: the hole for the disc is off-set so there is plenty of space to one side to place the X-sheet, models sheets, or any of the other dozens of little Post-It Notes and other scraps of papers that animators accumulate while animating.  (also the optional pencil holder , available from Lightfoot Animation .) 

More details and photos of building this desk at the original link:

http://cartoonmeltingpot.wordpress.com/2009/01/25/how-we-built-my-animation-desk/


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Inexpensive Large Format Scanner for Animation

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If you've ever priced out large format (11" x 17" tabloid size) scanners you know that they are generally very expensive (starting at $1,200 for basic 11" x 17" flatbed scanner , ranging up to $4,000 to $8,000 for an industrial strength Auto-Document Feed 11" x 17" scanner) .

However, there is a new 11" x 17" scanner on the market --- the Brother MFC-6490 CW scanner --- which retails for about $299.00 (although I've seen it for as low as $199.00 - to -$219.00 after a mail-in rebate).



As you know if you've priced out an 11 x 17 scanner, until now this was really unheard of to find such an inexpensive 11 x 17 size scanner which can handle full-sized 12 Field animation paper fed through an Auto-Document Feeder (ADF) for very fast scanning .

Combined with an Auto Peg Hole Recognition system in software such as TVP Animation, Digicel Flipbook, or ToonBoom Animate , this new Brother MFC-6490 CW scanner is a great tool for independent animators or students. The Brother MFC-6490 CW scanner is aimed at the small business and home-office user, so I doubt that it is necessarily built to hold up for a long time under heavy-duty feature film or tv production use, but for the student or the independent animator on a tight budget this product at least puts an 11" x 17" scanner within an affordable price range. At this price you could actually replace it several times over if it broke down before it would cost you as much as the usual 11 x 17 ADF scanners from Epson, Fujitsu, Ricoh, Canon, etc.

Animation student Dan Caylor first alerted me to the existence of this relatively low-cost 11" x 17" scanner. Here is Dan's review of the scanner on his site:



Dan is using it with Digicel Flipbook, but this auto-document feed scanner should work with any animation software that has Auto Peg Hole Alignment (such as TVP Animation.) I've personally tested it with TVP Animation and it works fine. If you're looking for a relatively low-cost 11" x 17" ADF scanner for your animation drawings then you might want to consider it.


*UPDATE  04/20/2011 - There is now a new model 11 x 17 scanner from Brother , the  Brother MFC J651-DW scanner .  Same general price range as the MFC 6490-CW.  Relatively low-priced for an 11" x 17" scanner.

I haven't used it , but I expect it's functions are similar to the MFC 6490-CW scanner.   For traditional hand-drawn animation our interest in these scanners is that they are relatively inexpensive scanners that can handle full-size 12 Field animation paper.  (and also  cut-down 16 Field paper .   Standard 16 Field paper is 16.5" x 13.5" , which won't quite fit in the auto-document feeder which takes paper up to 17" x 11" .    But , for example if you use HD 16:9 aspect ratio your 16 field scannable area will be within an area approx. 16" x 9.75" , so 16 field paper that has had the top lopped-off so it is cut down to 16.5" x 11" size will run through the Brother's auto-document feeder or fit on the flatbed.)

Image Capture for Animation - Scanning

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Video capture is typically used to make fast frame captures for pencil tests. Video has the advantage of speed .

However, when image quality needs to be very high (for instance when scanning drawings which will be colored) a scanner should be used, with the resolution set at least 300 dpi or higher.


A scanner may also be used for making pencil line tests as well , although it will typically take longer to scan a set of drawings than to shoot the pencil test with a video downshooter.


If you do use a scanner for pencil tests you will find that the scans go faster and create smaller file sizes if you scan in B&W mode or Greyscale mode. For rough-rough pencil tests the resolution of the scans can be lower, such as 72 - 96 DPI , especially if the intended output for the pencil test is a simple 640 x 480 Quicktime movie file.
(but for final scans which will be colored use at least 300 DPI resolution.)

The scanner will produce much cleaner images with less "grey" or "yellow" picked up from the paper, especially if you are careful to adjust the brightness and contrast (threshold) settings on the scanner before scanning your drawings.

Use a thin metal peg bar taped-down securely along the edge of the scanner , outside of the glass area.





(click image to see it larger)



A typical scanner only allows you to scan an area of 8.5" x 11" or 8.5" x 14" at most. Some brands of these flatbed scanners , such as the Canon LIDE 90 pictured above will allow you to capture up to about 10.5 or 11 field area of a standard 12 Field piece of paper , or if you are using smaller 10 Field paper you can capture the entire piece of paper from edge to edge.

Here's an article on  "Scanning 12 Field Size paper using a regular Letter-size (11" x 8.5") Scanner"  which shows how up to 11 Field can be scanned using certain models of scanner , such as the Canon LiDE series.  

If you are using full-size 12 field or larger 16 field paper you will need a large-format "tabloid" scanner which will capture a maximum image of about 12" x 17".





Examples of large format flatbed scanners are the Epson Expression 10000XL or the Microtek 9800XL scanner. Other brands include Richoh and Fujitsu.

The large-format flatbed scanners are MUCH more expensive than the standard office size scanners.

Even more expensive are the 11" x 17" tabloid size Auto-Document Feed (ADF) scanners. Usually the large format ADF scanners cost between $4,000 - $8,000 and are built for industrial level production. These are beyond the level that most individual animators or students would need or be able to afford.

However , there is now a relatively inexpensive ADF 11" x 17" scanner on the market, the Brother MFC-6490 CW scanner. I cover this in more detail in the next post after this one.





(Fujitsu ADF scanner for high speed, high volume scanning)



The advantage of Auto-Doc Feed scanners is SPEED , so if you are scanning a large number of drawings and time is of the essence then an Auto-Doc Feed scanner can be worth it . Be aware that your software must have the ability to recognize and automatically register peg hole shapes on the scanned drawings, since the drawings are scanned through on rollers , off-pegs. The drawings will jitter and shake unless the software is able to automatically recognize the peg holes and line them up . (The "2-Point Stabilization Pixel Tracker" in TVP Animation v.9.0 will align peg holes and the soon-to-be-released TVP Animation v. 9.5 has an improved automatic Peg Hole Registration feature which makes this process even faster. Digicel Flipbook's "Auto-Scan" plug-in also performs this function. Some (not all) versions of ToonBoom will auto-align peg holes on drawings scanned with auto-feed scanners.)

If you work on smaller 10 Field paper you may use a regular 8.5" x 11" size Auto-Document Feed scanner to speed scan your drawings. The regular size ADF scanners are much less expensive than the tabloid size 11" x 17" ADF scanners. The same conditions apply when using any ADF scanner: the animation software you use must be able to recognize and auto-align the scanned peg-hole shapes. Otherwise you must use a regular flatbed scanner and scan ON PEGS.

There is also a third-party plug in called SCAN-FIX written by Duane Palyka at RIT , which will re-align drawings scanned through an ADF scanner.




"When animators scan using an ADF bulk scanner, the scanned drawings lose their alignment due to being scanned off-pegs . Their digitized frames are offset relative to each other by the scanning process. SCAN-FIX will realign peg holes on ADF bulk-scanned animation frames so they match the original pre-scanned alignment."
If you use SCAN-FIX you will scan and save all your drawings to a folder, run the SCAN-FIX program on the batch of scanned drawings and then Import the Scan-Fixed drawings into your animation application .

Again, refer to the downloadable PDF booklet "Image Capture Techniques for Hand-Drawn Animation".

Animation Frame Capture - Video Capture

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I cover this topic in detail in the downloadable PDF booklet "Image Capture Techniques For Hand-Drawn Animation" which you can get by clicking on the link.

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At the pencil test stage one option for getting your hand-drawn artwork into the computer is to capture your frames with a digital video camera mounted on a down-shooter (could be a sturdy tripod, but preferably a Copy Stand). Drawings meant to be digitized for final coloring should be captured using a scanner , which I'll discuss in the next article.

The camera is pointed straight down at a shooting stage which has an Acme peg bar embedded or taped along the edge. The drawings are placed one at time under the camera and each drawing is captured as a single "frame" taken by the the animation software (i.e TVP or Digicel, etc.) via the live video feed from the camera. Digital video camera is attached to the computer via firewire (IEEE 1394) cable.

Here are photos of typical video pencil test stations with mini-dv camcorders used to shoot the drawings.

(click on the images to see them larger)



You can still find relatively simple, inexpensive Copy Stands at photography supply stores and on eBay. A popular line of copy stands that have been used for pencil test stations are the CS-3 and CS-2 line of copy stands made by Testrite Co.

Testrite CS-3 copy stand being used for shooting pencil tests:


The Testrite CS-3 an CS-2 copy stands are no longer in production, but they show up often eBay. Other brands of copy stands made by Bencher, Kaiser, Beseler, and Bogen will work equally well. You do not need to get one of the super-expensive models with a geared column and professional quality photo lights. Basically all you need is a sturdy column to hold your camera securely in place and a platform or "stage" underneath to tape-down your Acme peg bar. (the "stage" should be large enough to accommodate standard 12 and/or 16 field size animation paper.)

A tripod may also be pressed into service to shoot your animation. Be sure that the legs are secured so that they don't get moved during a shoot.



Lighting is very important when shooting your pencil tests. You should have bright, diffused lighting aimed down at the artwork at about a 45° angle to eliminate any shadows or over-exposed hotspots on the artwork. Adjust the lights and the manual exposure and white balance of the video camera until you have an image where the white of the paper is as light as possible , but the image of your pencil drawing is sharp and clear.

The spiral type of fluorescent bulbs called "Cool Bulbs" which are about 150 watt-equivalent can be used with inexpensive metal reflectors (clamp-on shop lamps) with ordinary white paper taped over the lamps to diffuse the light. If you have any open windows or other strong light sources other than the light you are shining on your animation drawings you should mask off the windows with heavy shades or black paper taped over the window , and/or mask off the shooting area so stray light does not fall on your shooting surface.

(click image to see it larger)



A regular consumer-level mini-dv camera such as the Canon ZR-960, most cameras in the Sony HandyCam line, or the Panasonic PV-GS320, PV-GS90 or PV-GS80 cameras can be used for video frame capture. (as long as the camera has an IEEE 1394/firewire out port it should work fine)

Canon mini-dv camera mounted on Kaiser copy stand.
Pencil line test system shown isToki Line Test:




Many other types of mini-dv cameras will be usable too. The main thing is that the dv camera should have an IEEE 1394 "firewire" interface and your computer will need a firewire port to plug it in. You should also make sure that any dv camera you plan to use for shooting your animation has manual override of focus, exposure, and white balance and that it will operate without a video tape or disc loaded in the camera (some brands will not operate or will not stay on continuously if there is not a video tape in the camera. You want to get one which will operate continuously providing a live video feed without a tape or disc loaded, because you are NOT recording directly to the tape or disc. For animation frame capture purposes you are only using the live video signal feed that is provided by the camera.)

You may even use a webcam such as the UniBrain Fire-i web cam although you should be aware that web cams are lower resolution (typically 640 x 480 max. resolution) and will not give as high an image quality as a DV camera.

The aGent V5 webcam will also work fine for shooting pencil tests with TVP or Digicel.

Some webcams do not allow manual over-ride of the focus or exposure, so are not usable because they will constantly be "searching" for a focus point because the flat, white surface of the paper does not give the camera anything to grab on to for focus. Your images may go in-and-out of focus from frame to frame if you can no lock down the focus to a fixed focus point. Better to use a digital video camcorder if possible, or a webcam such as the aGent V5 or Unibrain Fire-i which have manual focus.


If you can find a CCD "security camera" type of video camera will tend to give higher quality images for your pencil tests than a typical consumer-quality digital video or mini-dv camera. Sometimes these types of cameras can be purchased inexpensively from electronics surplus stores or from eBay. Purchased new they are typically more expensive than most consumer-level dv cameras and can be more trouble to hook up and run (and to purchase the necessary analog video-to-digital adapter) , but these cameras do have higher resolution and will give a better image quality overall. (though not as good as a scanner, which we'll discuss below.)

B&W "security monitor camera" mounted on copy stand:


Look for a surveillance/security camera with these features:

1.) S-Video Out connection if possible. (many have BNC "composite video" connection out , but S-Video is better quality than BNC, although BNC can work if you can find the right kind of adapter to get the feed to interface with your computer. )



2.) Manual over-ride on the lens shutter to adjust exposure

3.) Manual focus on the lens. Lens should be able to focus in range down to 12 inches.

4.) A zoom lens is helpful, though not necessary if the column on the copy-stand can be adjusted up and down.

Be aware that if you use this type of camera you will need to purchase an adapter such as the PYRO A-V LINK to feed the S-Video out or BNC Video out connection cable to your computer. Another suitable adapter is the Canopus 77010150100 ADVC110 Converter . The adapter will convert the analog S-Video or BNC Video signal to a digital signal that can be inputted to your computer. Be sure that the animation application you are using can read the signal . (if in doubt ask the Tech Support Dept. of the software you are using for frame capture.)



Animation Books

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What books should you get as you study animation ?

At the Academy of Art University Online we have several books which are required texts for many of the traditional animation classes. Check your individual class book list to see what books are required and which books are optional recommended books.


Books which are frequently on the Required Books list:

Disney Animation: The Illusion of Life
by Frank Thomas & Ollie Johnston

Character Animation Crash Course
by Eric Goldberg

The Animator's Survival Kit by Richard Williams

Cartoon Animation
by Preston Blair
(there is also a free downloadable verrsion of the 1st edition of Blair's book on the ASIFA Animation Archive: Preston Blair's "Animation" , 1st Edition )

Animation From Pencils to Pixels : Classical Techiques for the Digital Animator by Tony White

Simplified Drawing for Planning Animation
by Wayne Gilbert

Other worthy books for your attention:

Drawn to Life: 20 Golden Years of Disney Master Classes Vol. 1 and 2 by Walt Stanchfield. (

Timing for Animation by Harold Whitaker

Animation Background & Layout: From Student to Professional

by Mike Fowler

Prepare to Board: Creating Story and Characters for Animated Features and Shorts by Nancy Beiman

Creating Characters With Personality by Tom Bancroft

Elemental Magic: The Art of Special Effects Animation by Joseph Gilland

More on Build-It-Yourself-Animation Desk

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I saw a question posted on an animation forum about the type of hardware needed to make an adjustable light table, such as the one shown in the DIY Plans posted above

The hardware is available from specialty hardware and woodworking stores . The name of this special type of hinge is a "lid stay" or "flap stay", or "lid support" .

See a variety of different kinds here:

Specialty Cabinet Supplies - Lid Stays

and here:

Rufkahr's Lid Supports


This kind available from Rufkahr's is called the X-70200/05Z Lift Up Ratchet Support.



Another kind of table support used is a Pneumatic Spring Stay :



In these photographs you can see how the Lift Up Ratchet Support is used to make a portable animation table:



In the following photograph of animator Børge Ring's animation table you can see the Pneumatic Spring Stay used to hold the table top at the proper angle:

Purchasing an Animation Disc

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As I mentioned earlier a standard flat, rectangular or square lightbox with an Acme peg bar attached will do as the bare-minimum for animating, but it is best to have a lightbox or drawing table with a hole cut to mount a rotating animation disc. Believe me, it does make a difference. Rotating the disc gives you much more control over your drawings.




In years past when animators were expected to calculate their own camera/pan moves for their scenes , metal or wooden discs with sliding , ruled peg bars were the norm.

These peg bars were ruled in 20'ths of an inch to allow very close pan moves to be calculated by the animators and notated in the Camera column on the Exposure Sheet.



A precision, metal animation disc such as this deluxe model made by Mechanical Concepts is still a worthy tool, but not as necessary as in days past.



Nowadays when most camera moves are done within a digital ink & paint or compositing program (such as TVPaint, Digicel Flipbook, or ToonBoom, etc.) it is not as necessary to have the sliding peg bars on the disc to figure out the moves.

Many modern-day animators prefer to use a lightweight, relatively inexpensive white, translucent plexiglass disc. These type of discs originally became popular at the Richard Williams Animation Studio in the 70's and 80's and have since become widely used in the industry.



Here is Richard Williams animating on a plexi-disc at his studio in London in the late 80's :



Sylvain Chomet animating on his film "The Triplets of Belleville" :



The white plexiglass disc has the advantage of being much less expensive than the traditional metal disc with sliding peg bars , as well as being light-weight enough to carry around and use for animating in casual situations such as using ambient light to shine through the back as the animator rests the disc on his knees or on the edge of a chair or table. Richard Williams mentions in his book "The Animator's Survival Kit" , page 83, how he animated some of the first scenes in the film "Who Framed Roger Rabbit?" in a hotel room in Wales with a plexiglass animation disc propped up on his knees.

A white plexiglass disc from Cartoon Colour Co. costs $70.00 . It comes with an embedded plastic peg bar. (a tape-down metal peg bar is probably better overall in the long run , but the plastic peg bar will work ok) . Most of the white plexi-discs sold by other companies are basically the same.



That said , if you can afford to purchase a traditional disc with sliding peg bars, such as the wooden animation disc made by Alan Gordon Enterprises , or the popular hard plastic molded model from Chromacolour International , or one of the various metal discs still available from Central Tool Co., Cartoon Colour Co. or Mechanical Concepts then those can still be quite useful.

Alan Gordon wooden disc with sliding peg bars costs about $300.00 -


Chromacolour hard plastic 16 Field disc with sliding peg bars costs $480.00. Smaller 12 Field version is $425.00.



Mechanical Concepts 16F metal animation disc is about $550.00 -



Here is a typical animator's workspace with the popular black Chromacolour animation disc -



Typical animator's workspace with white plexiglass disc -


Either type of disc will work , but the less-expensive white plexiglass disc is sufficient for almost any type of traditional animation job.

Do-It-Yourself- Animation Desk

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As I mentioned in the previous post you may purchase a standard wooden drafting table and cut a 16 1/2" hole in it to fit a standard animation disc.

This is probably the easiest "do-it-yourself" animation desk if you have the right tools to make a precision circular cut like that. (it's trickier than it might seem at first, so "measure twice, cut once" and be careful.)


(you can also purchase a wooden drafting table with the hole pre-cut from Alan Gordon Enterprises or Cartoon Colour Co.)




If you're skilled with woodworking you may also want to build your own portable animation table. Here is a link to some plans:

Do-It-Yourself Animation Desk plans


From Misc. Animation


Here is a link showing Sheridan College animation student Brock Gallagher making an animation desk very similar to the one shown in the plans above:

Building a Do-It-Yourself Animation Desk


Here is another do-it-yourself animation desk project with photos and detailed instructions:

How To Make An Animation Desk - Part 1 -4

The finished product from the project linked above:

(click on images to see them larger)


Here animation student Dan Caylor shows the portable desk that he refurbished and added a backlight unit to:

The Traditional Animation Desk



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UPDATE: I'm happy to say I recently heard from animation student Marty Walker who built an Animation Desk using the Jim McCaulay plans I posted above. Check out the results :

http://chipsandsolstice.blogspot.com/2009/06/we-built-animation-desk.html

Marty was also good enough to list all the Materials and Tools needed for the project . See the link to his blog for the materials list.

By the way, for those of you who may not recognize the name of Jim McCaulay he was a great teacher of animation at Sheridan College in the 1970's , 80's, and into the 90's. Jim is retired now, but he influenced many of us who attended Sheridan's Classical Animation Program during those days. Here's a photo of Jim with a student :


(teacher Jim McCaulay with animation student 
Cathy Parkes at Sheridan College , about 1980.)

Jim also co-authored a book on storytelling in animation called "And Then What Happened?" with another Sheridan professor , Zack Schwartz.

Purchasing an Animation Desk or Lightbox

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One of the basic items you need to animate is an animation desk or a lightbox.

There are many different configurations of desks , some of which I have shown in the web album Animation Desks gallery in the sidebar links. You can peruse that album for ideas on how you might set up your own workspace.

There is also a PDF booklet that I have prepared called "Animation Student's Guide to Animation Desks" which may be downloaded by clicking on the link.

While it is possible to purchase or build a large professional studio-style desk such as this example of a Disney Studio desk ---

(click on any of the images to view them larger)


most of use don't have the space or the funds to purchase such a large desk for our home studio. (these desks are wonderful, but take up a lot of space and are very heavy to move).

A good , portable animation desk is the one made by Colin Johnson of Vancouver, BC , available through his web site AnimationDesks.com



This desk is very good value for the money as he includes the white plexiglass animation disc , and a fluorescent backlight unit with the desk itself ( similar desks from other companies typically have the desk/lightbox unit and the animation disc as separate items which cost more.)



There are similar portable table-top animation desks available from Chromacolour , Cartoon Colour, and Lightfoot Animation , though they are more expensive.

I will mention that the Lightfoot portable lightboxes do have a smaller "footprint" (only 24" x 24" compared to 36" x 24" on the Colin Johnson table) , so if space is an issue you might want to consider one of the compact Lightfoot Easel Design Animation lightboxes :


(these compact animation lightboxes from Lightfoot Animation Supplies cost about $100.00 more than the Colin Johnson desk, and do NOT come with the animation disc included. The white plexiglass animation disc is about $70.00 - to - $80.00 extra, so the Lightfoot model would actually cost about $180.00 more than the Colin Johnson animation table.)

Even more compact would be a simple lightbox with animation pegbar (no disc).

Lightfoot Animation sells the Artograph LightTracer II 12 Field lightbox (12" x 18") with an Acme peg bar pre-installed for about $100.00 .


Some online art dealers such as Dick Blick Art have these Artograph LightTracer II lightboxes for less , so keep your eyes open . Dick Blick currently sells the 12" x 18" model for only $58.18 (compared to list price of $99.00) . Add a thin tape-down Acme peg bar from Cartoon Colour for $25.00 or Lightfoot's thin aluminum peg Acme peg bar for $20.00 and you'll have a functional animation lightbox for about $80.00 to $85.00 dollars. (the Lightfoot thin peg bar 1/16" is not quite as thin as the one from Cartoon Colour Co. , 1/32", but is thinner than the usual cheap plastic peg bar which has too much of a raised edge.)

Cartoon Colour Co. also sells a similar Light Box (with larger work surface of 18 1/2" x 15 1/4" ) for $135.00.



Very compact, these lightboxes will work ok for your animation, but overall it is much better to have the rotating animation disc if possible. It also doesn't have much of a raised slant , but you can prop it up with some books to raise the angle.

Cartoon Colour Co. sells a compact Plexiglass Lightbox unit
(21 1/2" x 21 1/2" ) with a hole precision cut to take a standard animation disc (16 1/2" diameter hole) for $175.00 .



A white translucent plexiglass animation disc would cost an additional $70.00, so one of these units from Cartoon Colour would be $245.00 complete, more than the Colin Johnson Animation Desk, but the only advantage would be if you were pressed for space and needed a lightbox with a rotating disc that occupied a smaller footprint (only 21 1/2" x 21 1/2" compared to 36" x 24" on the Colin Johnson desk)


Traditional Drafting Table adapted to Animation Table:

A step-up from a portable table-top animation desk would be to have a hole cut into a standard wooden drafting table so you can mount an animation disc on it , with a backlight unit mounted underneath. What you would give up in terms of portability and compactness you would gain in flexibility and comfort. A drafting table can be adjusted in both height and the angle of the tabletop for the maximum in drawing comfort. You can adjust the table to whatever angle is best for you. If you have the space this is really the best option for a traditional animation set up.

The Alvin Pavilion model , 42" x 31" or 36" x 24" , is a good basic drawing table. These tables are available from Utrecht.com or other art suppliers.



If you have the proper tools to make a precision cut 16 1/2" hole in the table top then you could cut the hole yourself , or hire a local woodworker who has the proper tools to make the cut for you . You may have a friend or family member who has the proper tools to do this. Be very careful when cutting the hole. It must be smooth and perfectly round so the disc will turn smoothly.

You can purchase a table like this with the hole pre-cut from Cartoon Colour Co. or Alan Gordon Enterprises for about $250.00 . The animation disc and backlight unit is sold separately. The custom-fitted backlight units sold by Cartoon Colour Co. and Alan Gordon are nice to have , but expensive . You can do fine by mounting your own fluorescent light unit under the table or use inexpensive clamp-on metal shop lamp reflector with "Cool Bulb" spiral fluorescent bulbs as a backlight unit.



Besides being able to fine-tune the height and angle of the drafting table it also gives you more space to pin up notes, model sheets, and X-sheets , especially if you use an extension panel as shown below. (the extension panel may also be used on the Colin Johnson desk to add space to clip on an X-sheet to the right or left side of the table.)

(click any image to view it larger)


(notice most of the artists have a corkboard on the
wall in front of their desks to pin up model sheets and
other notes)






If you have the extra space an over-size table top gives even more space to pin up your model sheets and other notes as shown below:



You will also find it useful to surround your drawing space with a folding table, shelves ("scene stackers") and/ or some sort of side-table unit to have a place to stack your drawings , blank paper, pencils, and other supplies, to keep them organized and close at hand.

Notice the tall scene-stacker to the right of this animator's work space. The drawings from various scenes can be kept organized in a shelving unit such as the one shown below:



This Winsor-Newton artist's tabouret shown below makes a good compact side-table unit for an animation desk. Paper can be stored in the lower shelves, while the interior drawers can be used to store pencils, erasers, peg hole reinforcements , and other supplies.



Here is another view of a typical animation scene stacker unit filled with animation drawings bound between chipboard panels and rubber-banded around the outside to protect the drawings and keep everything neatly organized. Below is a shorter scene stacker unit:



Anyone looking for ready-made Scene Stackers (for 12 field animation paper) take a look at these cube stackers available from Target:

Cube Shelf Stackers
There are other similar stacking shelf units available from different office supply and home decor stores.

The one linked to above is 15" x 15" , which is big enough for 12 field paper (12.5" x 10.5") , not quite big enough for 16 field paper (16.5" x 13.5" ) . Most people use 12 field so that's no big deal. But if you expect to use 16 field you'll need to find slightly wider shelves.

These (also from Target) are wider and you could add multiple shelves to it:

Another "Scene Stacker" available from Target


Scene stackers might not be the most glamourous item on your equipment list , but you'll be surprised how handy these are for storing and keeping track of your animation drawings.

An inexpensive , functional scene stacker can be made from large size stacking file crates available from various office supply stores:



This economical file crate scene stacker could be further sub-divided into individual shelving compartments using sturdy cardboard or lightweight masonite panels held in place with wire or glued in place.

Basic equipment for hand-drawn animation

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We'll go into more detail in other posts, but what are the basics you need to get started with traditional hand-drawn animation ?

1.) Animation desk with animation disc , or a lightbox with pegbar. (get the disc if you can , it's better.)






2.) Extra ACME peg bar for scanning or video testing your drawings. Get a thin, metal tape-down peg bar if possible because those are the most versatile. Lightfoot Animation or Cartoon Colour Co. has them .

3.) ACME punched animation paper. Lightfoot Animation, Chromacolour, or Cartoon Colour Co. can supply. (see links in sidebar) .   Ingram Bond animation paper from Lightfoot or Cartoon Colour is recommended.   Chromacolour Prograde Plus 23 lb paper is also recommended.   These brands of paper are more expensive , but you'll notice the difference between this and the cheap photocopier-grade paper.   Ingram Bond or Chromacolour Prograde erases better, lasts longer, holds up to repeated flipping, the surface is better for drawing, it scans better.

4.) Pencils, various. Col-Erase red and blue.  Various brands of  Graphite pencils , HB, B, 2B .    Recommended graphite pencils include: Tombow Mono and  Palomino Blackwing 602.

5.) Erasers:  Soft kneaded eraser (grey) , and "Magic Eraser" (white) .

6.) Exposure Sheets (free , printable X-sheet templates from AnimationMeat.com).  Pre-printed Exposure Sheets from Cartoon Colour Co.

7.) Animation frame capture software. Two are particularly recommended : TVP Animation or Digicel Flipbook Studio.  Also good for pencil testing are: Toki Line Test, MonkeyJam (freeware , but for Windows PC only) .

8.) a scanner for scanning your animation drawings into TVP Animation or Digicel Flipbook



OR

8 a .) a digital video camera mounted on a down-shooter (tripod or ideally a copy stand) to capture your drawings via video feed.




I'll talk more about these items in the posts below, but in the meantime check out the Traditional Animation Materials List and these two downloadable/printable PDF resource booklets:


and

A new Animation Pencil Test capture station: SIMPLICITY CAM 5e HD DOCUMENT SCANNER

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As seen on the TVPaint Community User Forum :

This relatively new image capture station , the Simplicity Cam 5e HD Document Scanner by Recordex-USA  --





This unit is compatible with both Windows and Mac OS .

Capture resolution up to2560 x 1944 (which is actually higher than Academy Full Aperture 2K Film res. of 2048 x 1556)

Manual control of White Balance and Exposure.

Max. capture  area of   12.75" x 17.25"  (so this will capture the usable drawing area on 12 Field [12"w x 9"h ]  and 16 Field  [16" w x 12.75" h]  animation paper.)   

Image capture is much faster than scanning on a Flatbed scanner , but the capture resolution of the Simplicity Cam 5e is much higher than most webcams or mini-dv cameras that are typically used for pencil testing. 

NOTE: the base of the unit will need to be bolted down to a table top or a board so it can't be knocked over or jarred out of position (the base is weighted, but it needs to be completely locked down for animation) .


Add a thin tape down peg bar to the shooting stage to hold your drawings in registration as they are captured, 
 OR  if you have TVPaint Animation you can use the Peg Holes Registration FXin TVPaint to register the drawings post-capture , so you could potentially capture your images much faster by laying the drawings down flat on the shooting stage under the camera without a peg bar , but because the black backing of the shooting stage will show through the peg holes that will cause the peg hole shapes to be captured , so then when the images have all been captured into TVPaint you can run the Peg Holes Registration FX on the captured images to automatically align all the drawings in perfect registration  (Some other  pencil test softwares have similar types of automatic peg-hole shape alignment . Check with the Support Dept. of the software you use to see if this is an option .   I can tell you that the Peg Hole Registration in TVPaint Animation is easy to use and is very accurate.)
You will need to add a set of lights as the built-in LED light that comes with it is not generally bright enough .   But the lights you need for Pencil Testing are inexpensive clamp-on "shop lamps"  which you can purchase at any hardware store.   Use 150 watt equivalent spiral "Cool Bulb" fluorescent lights , which remain cool enough to tape a piece of  plain white paper over the lamps so you will get very bright, but diffused light spread over the shooting area so your drawings are captured without hotspots in the middle or shadows at the edges which can happen when pencil testing without adequate lighting.

This kind of lighting set up shown below with inexpensive shop lamps will work fine :


On the Mac use it with CamTwist Studio for extra control over the captured images (control Brightness/Contrast/White Balance , and also Zoom-in/Zoom-out of the camera) .  On Windows use the software that comes with the camera for Windows : XSight HD camera viewer software.

The Simplicity Cam 5e unit is confirmed to work for capturing high-res. b & w line art animation drawings into TVPaint Animation  with both Windows and Mac OS.   (given that it is an HD USB camera it should potentially work with any other kind of pencil test software such as Digicel Flipbook  or Toki Line Test.  But check the technical specs first with the Support Dept. from whatever software you are using)

More information here:

  http://www.recordexusa.com/page152.html

Note: the manufacturer Recordex-USA does not sell directly to the public.

This reseller has it listed for $178.00 (price visible if you add it to the cart) -   http://www.provantage.com/recordex-sc5e~7RCDX005.htm


The Simplicity Cam 5e HD Document Scanner unit is listed for $199.00from this retail reseller:


http://www.fullcompass.com/product/403224.html

Handroo Animation Table

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This stylish portable animation table is made in France by Handroo.

Download the brochure at this link:    Handroo Brochure

They are working on securing a U.S. distributor.   In the meantime you may order directly from them. (although the shipping is expensive)   Price is approximately $300 USD , plus $180 shipping to the U.S.   Check with them on exact shipping cost , depending on your location.


They offer it in kit form, unpainted , so you can customize it with your own colors .  The kit version is slightly less expensive.


Here's the basic unit:





Here's a custom painted version:



Back view:


Hand-Drawn Animation Equipment and Supplies

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Why this blog ? What will you find here ?

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This page is a sub-section of my blog for online animation students Academy of Art Animation Notes.

Here you will find sources and suggestions for purchasing or building traditional animation equipment. (see the links in the sidebar for companies which sell animation equipment and supplies online.)

Two useful apps for Traditional Animation

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For scanning animation drawings for import into animation apps such as TVPaint Animation or ToonBoom Animate Pro / Harmony,  or Digicel Flipbook  you should seriously consider VueScan scanning software.    VueScan (for Mac, Windows, and Linux)  offers many options for image adjustment/enhancement .  Scan your drawings in VueScan, then import to TVPaint  (or ToonBoom,  or Digicel , though I think of these TVPaint is the best) .

If your are using video capture instead of scanning then get iGlasses for Mac (Mac only, not for PC Windows) .   iGlasses gives you many more options for manually adjusting the exposure, focus,  and white balance  using an HD webcam (such as the Logitech C-920) .






PART 2 : Getting Started with Traditional Animation -- ON INBETWEENING: A FOUNDATIONAL SKILL

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PART 2 : Getting Started with Traditional Animation -- ON INBETWEENING: A FOUNDATIONAL SKILL 

If you have the book by Tony White "Animation From Pencils to Pixels"  read his material on "2D Animation Basics"pg. 342 - 348 on Inbetweening:



Also take a look at the following videos which demonstrate the inbeween process.

This first video was done by one of the other instructors here at AAU, Tony Claar, where Tony explains very clearly an old inbetweening "trick" to accurately line up inbetween positions. (you'll see the same thing illustrated in Tony White's book Animation From Pencils to Pixels on pg. 342 - 348 ) This "dot method" that Tony shows in his tutorial is related to the off-pegs-shift-and-trace trick that Tom Arndt demos in the video "Inbetween Drawings Off-Pegs"  in the Media Download area for Module 2 :
 



Also review the attached handouts (click the links to download):   "10 Steps to a Perfect Inbetween"  and  "Clean Up Hints" , both of which discuss a little bit about tricks like "off-the-pegs" inbetweening which can increase your speed and accuracy when inbetweening.


In this video clip from a documentary on his career in the mid-1970's  Richard Williams tells the truth about what full-animation inbetweening is about : "Every Drawing is Important " -

(the part about inbetweening starts at the 0:45 mark after the clip from Williams's "A Christmas Carol" )



What he says is true:  "Inbetweening" as a separate step in the process is often times a necessity of mass production pipelines, but in fact anyone who is doing "inbetweens" or "breakdowns" or is a "Key Assistant Clean Up Artist" is doing animation .   Traditional full-animation takes every drawing seriously. (yes, as Dick Williams points out , there are times when there are just straight half-way drawing-between-drawing inbetweens that need to be done to complete the production , but even then you can keep up a high level of craftsmanship.)

*The clip is a bit dated in terms of how Williams refers to what was then possible with computer graphics (c. 1978) , but his essential point still stands:  in classical hand-drawn animation every drawing is important and even "mere inbetweens" should be approached with the sensitivity and skill that only a trained artist can bring to the table. 

 In traditional inbetweening we build up detail on top after the basic shape has been lightly sketched in and established (usually with light blue or red pencil).

Here's an example of building up a character from rough, basic shapes before refining the final lines of the inbetween .  The main breakdown inbeween to do here is #5 .  Notice how the inbetween is built up by blocking in basic forms first, then tying-down the line detail on top of the basic forms.

Extremes are drawings #1  and  #8 .   1/2 -way breakdown inbetween will be #5 :




Maybe you'd like to try your hand at doing this test.  Here are the drawings:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12911367/Inbetween%20Tests.zip

You'll need to print-out and peg up the drawings in registration .  (use the + cross-hair registration marks on the drawings)

Find the Basic Form on a difficult inbetween position,  then add the details after you have the basic form turning correctly:




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A Note about working Paperlessly in TVPaint :

You can certainly use the "dot and arcs method" when working paperlessly with a Wacom tablet in TVP Animation , though it is more difficult to simulate taking the drawings off-pegs and shifting them when you're working paperlessly.  (you are encouraged to work traditionally with paper)

NOTE: TVP 9.5  and TVP 10/10.5 have an "Inbetween Out-of-Pegs" ("off pegs") function.   If you're using TVP be sure you have 'Checked for Updates'  in the TVP Help menu so you have the most recent version.  (for TVP 9/9.5 the most recent version is 9.5.21 .  For TVP 10/10.5 the most recent version is 10.5.7)

See this tutorial:

** Inbetweening in TVPaint ** 

Another thing to remember if you're working paperless is that you can get greater accuracy in your inbetweens by zooming-in close on the drawings and working at a larger size. The larger the drawing , the greater control you'll have over your individual strokes. Sometimes when working paperless the best way is to rough your drawing very lightly with basic forms , then zoom in and start to refine the placement of the lines (with the onionskin/light table turned on) as you are zoomed in closer.  Periodically zoom out and scrub through the drawings to check how the lines are flowing.   If you detect any shakiness or jittering in some lines erase and refine the line. 

*Learning to animate on a Wacom tablet (Intuos or Cintiq) can be a challenge in and of itself  (to get comfortable with drawing on the tablet) , soas a general rule most people learn the process better by working traditionally with pencil and paper.  Then those traditional inbetweening skills can be applied to working on a tablet.

-------

Here is a playlist of videos I've found on YouTube that cover the topic of inbetweening.  Some of the so-called "tutorials" posted on YouTube are pretty bad,  basically "the blind leading the blind" , made by people who can barely draw or animate ,  but these six tutorials on inbetweening presented in this Playlist are ones that I'd recommend you watch .   The seventh tutorial on "Animation Clean-up" is more of a "digital inking" tutorial , since it doesn't really cover cleaning-up sequential animation drawings  (dealing with issues of maintaining consistency of volume and line weight from drawing to drawing) , but it's a good tutorial on how to approach cleaning-up a rough drawing .

http://youtu.be/U2H6tTLEITA?list=PLpyXxVvCbmX8LAj6PTnQpA5mNwfwV17Zb 


------

 This video by former Disney animator Dave Zaboski is a good introduction to animating and inbetweening in TVPaint. Dave uses a hybrid process of starting his rough drawings on paper , then finishing his scene in TVPaint :
 


TV Paint Beginner's tutorial from Dave Zaboski on Vimeo.


I'd suggest you watch these video tutorials on Inbetweening in FULL SCREEN mode so you can see the details .
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Getting Started with Traditional Animation : Basic Techniques PART 1

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Whether you are using using traditional pencil on paper with an animation disc (recommended) or a Wacom tablet drawing directly into TVPaint Animation ,  you should read the material posted below in this thread to get up to speed on the terminology and techniques of traditional hand-drawn character animation.


















See this   "Traditional Animation Materials List"  and also my blog where I have links to many sources for traditional animation equipment and supplies:

Animation Studio Stuff for Students : Hand Drawn Animation Equipment

PLEASE let me know if any of the embedded movies or images posted below are not showing up for you .

Traditional Animation Basics - Starting off right - 

Whether your are using traditional pencil on paper or using a Wacom tablet to animate you will want to make sure that you have understood and follow the traditional animation methods and terminology.

To make sure we are all"on the same page"please spend some time to delve into our class Textbooks and read these sections prior to the first week of class or at the very start of the first week of class for Module 1 and continue to refer back to this material so you will be able to establish good industry-standard work habits from the start.



To get started , read in our class textbook , "The Animator's Survival Kit"by Richard Williams , pg. 41 - 45 on  ANIMATION IS CONCENTRATION .

Notice there in the book he relates and illustrates an amusing anecdote of an encounter he had early in his career with master Disney animator Milt Kahl , resulting in him coming to understand that "Animation is Concentration" . You can watch Richard Williams amusingly tell the story here:




But within this amusing story is a solid truth :  Animation is Concentration.   Don't let yourself get distracted when you're animating.   Animating involves a lot to keep track of mentally and if even the great Milt Kahl admitted that he "wasn't smart enough to think of more than one thing at a time"  then maybe we aren't either ? 



READINGS for MODULE 1 -

(you can wait until first week of class to do these readings , or get a jump on things and read them now , before the semester starts.  We'll be reviewing these readings again)

    1.)Character Animation Crash Course by Eric Goldberg  , read the preface pages  pg. xvii – xxii on “Definition of Terms” ,

     2.)Character Animation Crash Course, read pg. 67 – 74  on The Exposure Sheet. (aka the "X-sheet"  or the "Dope sheet" .)

    3.) Also read pg. 70 – 77 in the Richard Williams book  The Animator’s Survival Kit where he discusses the development and use of The X-Sheet.  Some of the material overlaps with what Eric Goldberg writes on the X-sheet , but it is good to get multiple points of view to better understand essential points.

    Even if you are animating paperlessly with a Wacom tablet in TVPaint or some other digital 2D program you will find that using a traditional X-sheet is very useful and gives you more control over your timing.   This is not just “old-timey” stuff being reviewed here with a sense of nostalgia for the good ol' days of Walt and the Nine Old Men , etc. ; it’s a logical system that has been fine tuned over many years of use in professional animation studios and it still works best for traditional character animation , even with all our digital bag of tricks.

      4.) Read  The Animator’s Survival Kitby Richard Williams,  pg. 36 – 39 on Timing and Spacing ,  and read  pg. 46 – 67  on Charts & Inbetweens,  Keys, Breakdowns, Inbetweens, On 3 Ways to  Animate.

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    5.)  OPTIONAL READING In Animation: From Pencils to Pixels by Tony White, read Chapter 11  - “2D Animation Basics” , pg. 332 – 348 on Keys , Inbetweens, and Timing , so you will better understand the concepts of Key drawings, Inbetween drawings, and Timing/Spacing charts. 

    Another OPTIONAL READING would be to read in Chapter 11 of  Animation: From Pencils to Pixels by Tony White,  from pg. 349 –to - 365  to further familiarize yourself with the use of the Exposure Sheet (aka “the X-sheet” or “the Dope sheet”) and the use of peg bars and flipping.

    Again, you'll notice some overlap of the material you're also reading in the Eric Goldberg and Richard Williams books , but we tend to learn through repetition and I hope the point is not lost on you that all three of these authors writing at different times and different places share a common "language" of traditional animation terms and methodology.
Flipping and Rolling Your Drawings -

An important technique to learn is how to "roll" your drawings on the pegs of the animation disc or light box and also how to flip your drawings to check the action, so if you are using  traditional pencil on paper for doing your assignments in this class then you should be aware of how to properly Roll and Flip your paper drawings.

 Although difficult to describe, both rolling and flipping are a knack you will acquire as you do them more. Sometimes both of these actions are just known simply as Flipping, depending on who you ask. See "The Animator's Survival Kit" page 80 - 83.

You can use the rolling action to check a group of five drawings stacked on top of each other (one sheet flat on the drawing surface and the other four sheets of paper held between the fingers.) The wrist and fingers work together to roll the drawings back and forth like this so you can preview the action , see the animation on the drawing board:



TIP: a rubber band stretched over the pegs helps keep the drawings from falling off the pegs while you roll them.

In this brief movie taken at the Disney Studio  animator Frank Thomas is seen demonstrating both rolling (on the pegs) and flipping (off the pegs) as he animates and checks his work on Lady and The Tramp :



Here is footage of animator Fred Moore at the Disney Studio working on his light table , drawing Mickey Mouse:


 This video also shows the basic wrist/fingers action for rolling the drawings on a pegbar:




Here are a few more videos showing you how traditional animators work with the drawings on their animation disc, rolling the drawings on the pegs, and also "flipping" the drawings off the pegs to check the action. You should get used to doing this with your own drawings.  Please watch these in their entirety .

First, animator Joanna Quinn shares how she works:


(More videos of Joanna Quinn:   https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLpyXxVvCbmX91rDs2gWgTI5uf-bp_6J0-&feature=view_all 


Animator Sylvain Chomet discusses his approach to animation:





Rough To Clean : We Work in Stages -

Did you notice how both Joanna Quinn and Sylvain Chomet work rough in their animation drawings ?   Sometimes beginning animators have a tendency to try to work too clean ,  trying to make their animation drawings very precise and "tight" in terms of the line quality, but this usually ends up making the animation look very stiff .


Below is a great example of how a master animator  works  --- this scene of Jane from Disney's "Tarzan" movie is by Ken Duncan .   Ken's final  "roughs"  that he turns over to his assistants for inbetweening and clean-up are very meticulously drawn, so no doubt is left about what he intended ,  but if you look at Ken's initial rough pass you see that he works VERY ROUGH at first.

Doing a rough pass allows him to concentrate all his energy on the acting.   Once he gets the rough pass established he goes through and does a tie-down pass to clarify the drawings and add details.

The first clip shows Ken's first rough pass.   The second clip shows his tied-down rough pass  (which in turn will be given to an assistant animator who will put down a final, ready-for-scanning clean line )

But to get to that second set of tied-down , detailed drawings the path he takes is to do the rough pass first.   This is a method which allows the maximum flexibility in developing the scene. 

Ken Duncan’s first rough pass:




Ken's Second Rough Pass , a "tie-down" pass -




How the Final Animation appeared in Color -



 For more examples of animator's Pencil Tests go to :

 http://livlily.blogspot.com/2010/11/pencil-tests-animators.html

http://www.penciltestdepot.com/


Numbering and Charting Drawings :  Keeping Track of it All -

As you've gone through the readings on traditional animation terminology and methods discussed above , please make sure you have a good grasp of the logic used in numbering the drawings on the actual artwork as well as on the X-sheet , and how the Charts are used to indicate timing and spacing on the drawings.

Each of the recommended text books for this class each one has a section on the use of the Exposure Sheet,  or X-sheet for short.

The best explanations of this important tool are in Eric Goldberg's "Character Animation Crash Course"  pg. 67 – 74  on The Exposure Sheet  and Richard Williams's "The Animator's Survival Kit" , pages 70 - 77 .

I'd like you all to make sure you thoroughly understand what is covered in those sections regarding numbering of drawings whether you are using TVPaint Animation or animating traditionally on paper.

Notice this numbering system was developed primarily at Disney and is the most flexible system:

When animating"On Twos"(each drawing exposed for two frames) the drawings are numbered by odd numbers , while animation "On Ones"  is numbered with both the even and odd numbers consecutively . 

Thus a section of animation On Twos is numbered like this :

 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21  , etc.

because each drawing is exposed for two frames on the X-sheet or timeline .

Drawing #1 is exposed on both frames 1 and 2 ,  drawing #3 is exposed for frames 3 and 4,  drawing #5 is exposed for frames 5 and 6, and so forth.   The drawing number corresponds to the frame number it starts on .  The frame numbers always advance forward at 24fps ("on ones")  but in most cases our animation can be effectively done on "12 fps" , (that is exposed "on twos") .

Now , let's say that in looking at the pencil test of this scene animated On Twos you decide that part of the action would look better On Ones , so you can easily drop-in the drawings on ones (on even numbers) if you inbetween the odd numbered drawings to add drawings on ones:

 1 ,2 ,3 ,4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 ,

and then go back to twos :  ,15, 17 19, 21, 23, 25, 27 , etc.

A good rule of thumb is that VERY FAST action will almost always be animated On Ones , whereas normal actions or especially slow actions can be On Twos.   But it depends on the action.  Test it first , try it on twos , then if you need to you can add ones.  Animating on Twos can save a lot of time and work since working on Twos is half-the-drawings needed as animating on Ones.

Example of Animation drawings with charts and exposure on X-sheet.








This system of numbering and exposing the drawings is very logical, elegant system. Read the Richard Williams book , "The Animator's Survival Kit"pages 70 - 77, especially page 76 and in Eric Goldberg's "Character Animation Crash Course" pg. 67 – 74  on The Exposure Sheet to wrap your mind around this system of numbering and use it .

Also make sure you understand the concept and use of Charts on the drawings.  These charts indicate the animator's intended spacing of the inbetween drawings .   In the Richard Williams book "The Animator's Survival Kit"you can see an explanation of the form and function of the timing chart on pages 47 - 57 .  Charts are guides for how far apart the breakdowns and inbetweens are between the animator's Extreme drawings.    Even though you will be inbetweening your own work in this class , get in the habit of making clear, easily-followed charts on your animation drawings.

Here are some of the most common Charts you will see on animation drawings:

*IMPORTANT: Do me a favor. When you animate your assignments for this class make sure you number your drawings clearly near the upper right corner of the page and have your timing charts written clearly in that general area too, so that when you shoot or scan your drawings I can clearly see your numbering and how you have charted your drawings.

Also, scan and upload your numbered X-sheet (as a .jpg file) when you upload your movie file .

This will help me to give you accurate frame-by-frame feedback on any corrections you need to make with your timing and we will both be clear on which drawings I'm referring to in my Notes to you. Please do this whether you are animating on paper or paperlessly in TVPaint .

 It's important that I see your thinking process with numbering and charting your drawings -- 


Don't worry that the numbers flashing by up at the corner of the screen looks "messy". Everyone who works in animation is used to seeing those in rough animation tests.

Look at these examples from professional animators demo reels: 


Pablo Navarro Demo Reel 2010 from Pablo Navarro on Vimeo.

Animation of Owl from "Winnie the Pooh" by Dale Baer -


Dale Baer: Owl from Winnie the Pooh from Jamaal Bradley on Vimeo.


See the drawing numbers and the charts flashing by on the edges of the paper of the pencil test ? If you clearly mark your drawings like this then I will always be able to step through your pencil tests frame-by-frame and refer to the exact drawing or section of drawings that need to be tweaked.


....

"Cel" Levels and X-sheets in the Digital Age:
Every layer or level on the X-sheet accounts for each and every element in a scene : characters, props, effects animation (shadows, fire, smoke, etc.) , and Background elements.

Even though in the present day we are not physically photographing the levels on cels with a motion picture camera (instead we use a digital "camera" to composite levels within TVPaint , Digicel Flipbook, Toonboom, Flash etc.) you should still get used to thinking of the logical "stacking order" for the various levels.

Imagine you are looking down through the levels drawn on transparent cels , stacked on top of a BG level , with the camera pointing down . The top most level would be for any overlays, effects animation, or any character or prop that is in the foreground or covers another character at some point. Then come the character levels , finally the Background level on the lowermost level. The digital compositing process still needs to have the levels stacked in a logical manner like this, so consider that when planning your scenes if you have multiple levels in a scene.


Today this is all done in the computer , but the concept of LAYERS and the logic of LAYER ORDERING is the same .


Click the link to go to Part 2of this post on "Getting Started with Traditional Animation" ,  ON INBETWEENING: A FOUNDATIONAL SKILL.


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Pencil Testing with your iPhone or Android Smartphone - a faster alternative to scanning

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A faster alternative to scanning is to capture your animation drawings with your iPhone or Android Smartphone. Modern phone cameras are quite high resolution , so the images captured can be very sharp. (the iPhone 7 has a 12MP camera for example , and similar Android phones have 12 MP or 8 MP cameras).   Use good lighting for optimum image quality.   See the document:

Image Capture Techniques for Hand Drawn Animation

(this is a booklet I put together several years ago, so the capture technology shown is dated  -- mini-dv cameras , video surveillance ccd cameras  -- but the camera stands and lighting set-ups shown are still valid if you're using an iPhone , digital camera, or webcam for capturing your drawings)



The best lighting arrangement is use 2 - to - 4 lamps arranged as shown in the diagram above , at about at 45-degree angle from the surface of the drawings. You want to adjust the lighting so you get totally flat, even illumination over the surface of the drawings, without any hotspots or shadow areas. Some plain white paper or translucent vellum (tracing paper) taped over the mouth of the lamps will provide diffusion of the light , so the light is evenly spread over the surface.


(this shows a video camera on a copy stand, but with an adapter this could also be a smartphone mounted on the copy stand, pointing straight down at the drawings  ... you can also use a Webcam such as the Logitech C-930 or C-920 to make your image captures directly into TVPaint using the Video Input panel,  but the iPhone camera will provide much higher resolution image captures than a webcam. )

 See this  blog post by Jim Richardson on his blog Animateducate ,  which covers the topic thoroughly:
  https://animateducated.blogspot.com/2014/01/animation-on-your-phone-part-2.html 



 You'll need to get a REMOTE CONTROL for the phone so you can fire off the shutter without physically touching the phone. (to avoid the jarring the camera).  There are many different models available. Here are a couple you could use:

 https://www.amazon.com/CamKix-Bluetooth-Shutter-Control-Smartphones/dp/B00PJSIIES/

 https://www.amazon.com/Fintie-Bluetooth-Wireless-Multimedia-Smartphones/dp/B00WFXWKY4

 You'll also need to securely mount the iPhone or Android phone on a tripod or a copy stand with a tripod mount adapter . There are various models of tripod mounts you can use, such as this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Joby-JM1-01WW-GripTight-Mount-Black/dp/B009GHYLKS

  (check on Amazon for others : https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Dmobile&field-keywords=tripod+mount+ ) .

You could do the same thing using an iPad , if you have the necessary adapter mount for the iPad.

Each drawing is placed onto a taped-down ACME pegbar and illuminated by two lights at 45% angles on either side of the stand.  Use the ultra-thin metal peg bar so it sits flush with the shooting surface . (don't be tempted to use the cheaper white plastic peg bars, because those are 1/8" thick and will tend to make the paper buckle , instead of laying completely flat when you put it down on the peg bar.)

The iPhone's (or Android' phone's)  camera must be adjusted to make sure the focus and exposure are locked before shooting so you don't get fluctuations in the focus or exposure , which will cause flickering.  Use the remote control to capture each image, so you don't physically touch the camera when capturing.

After you have captured all the drawings, transfer the image sequence from your phone to a folder on your computer (name the folder(s) by Scene Number , so you can keep track of your original image captures )  and then import the image sequence into your animation program such as TVPaint Animation or AfterEffects or what have you ,  to arrange the drawings in layers and to time the drawings on the timeline.

Scanning will still give you the very best image quality if you are scanning final clean-up drawings for coloring , but for pencil testing purposes it is much faster to capture your drawings with your iPhone or Android phone camera  (or you can use a digital still camera mounted on a tripod or copy stand ... follow the same procedure , capturing each drawing one at a time , using a remote control shutter release , and after the entire image sequence is captured, transfer the image sequence to your computer and then import the image sequence into TVPaint or whatever animation program you are using.

-----

A useful accessory is a hinged glass platen , to press down your drawings absolutely flat .
Plans to make one are here :

http://www.animatormag.com/archive/issue-16/issue-16-page-25/




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